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An art collection in a WWII bunker in Berlin

Posted on Jan 7, 2013 in Berlin | 0 comments

Boros Collection WWII bunker

The Boros Collection is a private art collection housed in a WWII bunker.

Boros Collection, bunker entrance

Which one do you think is the entrance to the bunker?

Weeks ago, I had booked a tour of the Boros Collection for January 6. It’s a private art collection housed in a large WWII bunker in the middle of Berlin. The owners of the collection also own the bunker and occupy a large loft on top of the bunker as their private home. You have to book this tour online well in advance, it takes 1.5 hours and they only take 12 people per tour. The fee is €10.

The gist of it that this was an incredible experience. I enjoyed the art which was sometimes very playful in contrast to the bunker, and I appreciated the bunker architecture as a historical reminder and that the renovation architects left so much of it intact. Sometimes all the rebars that are inserted into the walls are exposed, walls are mostly left in raw concrete form, you can see where floor plans were altered, the artists have created much of their work to fit into the spaces, it’s really a theme park for art lovers in there.

The gallery’s owners collect modern art by (based on their website): Ai Weiwei, Awst & Walther, Dirk Bell, Cosima von Bonin, Marieta Chirulescu, Thea Djordjadze, Olafur Eliasson, Alicja Kwade, Klara Lidén, Florian Meisenberg, Roman Ondák, Stephen G. Rhodes, Thomas Ruff, Michael Sailstorfer, Tomás Saraceno, Thomas Scheibitz, Wolfgang Tillmans, Rirkrit Tiravanija, Danh Vo, Cerith Wyn Evans und Thomas Zipp.

Taking photos during the tour was not allowed, only in the entrance and lobby areas, so I have nothing to show you, but you can find examples of the bunker rooms housing art on the collection’s website. Now enjoy this short tour.

Boros bunker floor plan

The bunker floor plan seems sort of evil with its relentlessly precise symmetrical design. The walls of this thing are incredibly thick.

Entering the bunker

Entering the bunker, you are met by logs which seem to tell you where you can and can not go.

Entering the bunker

Entering the bunker, you are met by logs which seem to tell you where you can and can not go.

WII phone in Boros bunker

No, you steam punks, this is not a Bioshock game prop! It’s a real WWII bunker phone! Geez!

Boros Collection WWII bunker

Real bunker doors.

Boros Collection WWII bunker

Real bunker door handle.

In the Boros Collection bunker

This is just a reflection of the ceiling neon light on one of the white-lacquered benches in the waiting area for tour groups, but it turned into something that looked like minimalist art.

Boros bunker

A lamp glows in the Boros bunker. I think I may have helped this effect by under-exposing, but I am not sure and too busy to check.

Boros Collection WWII bunker

Who knows where this lead to, but it looks ominous.

Boros Collection WWII bunker

Big brother is still watching you.

Moonlight lighting store

I walked by this “Moonlight” lighting store and could not resist playing with the globe lamps mixing with the reflection of the street scene outside.

Berlin construction

As I leave the Boros bunker on this rainy Sunday of January 6, there are signs of still-heavy Berlin construction everywhere.

Berlin Bundestag

Many buildings in the Berlin government area have this “Bundestag” sign, which I take to mean there are German representatives working around here. I hope they are. All of Europe hopes they are.

Berlin activism graffiti

Graffiti is alive and well in Berlin and definitely serves a purpose; it’s not always there just to tag, it’s there to express freedom of thought, opinion, make political and personal statements, to educate, decorate, inform. I am all for the graffiti. This particular one is a call to establish a minimum wage, which does not exist in Germany, believe it or not.

Berlin

Looking over towards where Angela might be and one of her parks.

British embassy in Berlin

The British embassy in Berlin is barricaded off by these cylinders, a police car is parked out front, it is a dreary, cold, rainy Sunday in the first week of January, nobody wants to be down here right now except a lone Canadian tourist…

Near Potsdamer Platz, Berlin

I believe this is an office building near Potsdamer Platz, Berlin with a cool mobile sculpture hanging into its lobby. The woman who is just walking down the stairs is wearing a jacket or dress with a white lapel with black piping that seems to echo the sculpture’s look.

Potsdamer Platz, Berlin

Potsdamer Platz, Berlin.

Sony Center near Potsdamer Platz, Berlin

Sony Center near Potsdamer Platz, Berlin.

A bar or cafe in the Sony Center

A bar or cafe in the Sony Center.

Sony Center, Berlin

Sony Center, Berlin. This was a day of many impressions, almost too many to process.

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Jeff flies back to Vancouver, or the Zen of shopping for art supplies

Posted on Jan 6, 2013 in Berlin | 0 comments

Sketch of Jeff

Jeff is used to me sketching him. I think I have his features down by now, so I can get on with what really matters: drawing his caricature.

On January 5, Jeff had to fly back to Vancouver in order to get back to work on Monday January 7. Unlike me, he has to show up in an office and interact with colleagues and employees.

I was sad to see him go; we had a great time over the Christmas holidays. After dropping him off at the airport in the morning, then doing a couple of hours of house cleaning and laundry, and catching up on some work that I had pushed aside to do after his visit, I walked around my neighbourhood on my way to an art supply store. On the way there I saw some shop windows that intrigued me and photographed them. I also spent €40 at the art supply store for a fancy calligraphy pen, two pocket-size sketchbooks that still allow me to draw in my favourite panorama format, and to restock my regular sketching pens.

It occured to me that maybe I was shopping to combat a bit of loneliness after saying goodbye to Jeff, even though I do use a lot of these supplies. It made me think about how accumulating stuff is often about subconsciously filling an unmet need. Not that there is anything wrong with any met or unmet needs, these are all part of being human.

But I have realized over the last few years that it doesn’t matter what you do, who you are, and what you have accumulated. What matters is how you feel about it.

Remembering that insight was my Zen moment for the day.

Shopping for art supplies

Restocking my urban sketching art supplies so I can get on with some artmaking.

Shop window display, Berlin

The display in this shop window of many types of “Strick Liesel” (Knitting Liesel) gave me some nostalgia. I remember knitting weird little tubular things on these knitting devices, for which there seemed to be absolutely no earthly use. At least nothing that you would want to admit to.

Shop window display, Berlin

Miniature scenes in a shop window display.

Shop window display, Berlin

Antique shop window display.

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Visit to yet another sauna in Berlin

Posted on Jan 5, 2013 in Berlin | 0 comments

January 4 was Jeff’s last full day in Berlin, and we tried to make the most of it: a visit to the Photography Museum, then Nina invited us over for a chat and a wonderful soup, later we shared a pizza for dinner and then went to one more sauna in the late evening.

We are the sauna champions. During Jeff’s visit, we made it to five saunas: Liquidrom, Mediterana, Rykestrasse Saunabad, Meridian, and this last one was Olivin. Olivin is quite small, only has one sauna, they were out of bathrobes to rent so we had to wrap ourselves in towels, and it was really too full for its size. But on a less crowded day it would have been just fine. Also, it’s in my neighbourhood and it costs only €10 for a 2.5 hour visit.

Olivin sauna courtyard

Olivin sauna courtyard.

Olivin sauna interior with shower

Olivin sauna interior with shower.

Olivin sauna lounge area

Olivin sauna lounge area

Olivin sauna

Olivin sauna

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Two days in Dresden might be better than one night in Bangkok

Posted on Jan 4, 2013 in Dresden | 0 comments

Dresden Galerie Alter Meister

I painted this copy of a painting in the Dresden Galerie Alter Meister with the app “Paper” on my iPad. And no, it does not do the original justice at all, which is called “Doppelbildnis einer Dame und eines Herrn in den Rollen von Pomona und Venus” by Nicolas de Largilliere.

On January 2 and 3, we spent two days and one night in the restored baroque city of Dresden. I will let the photos and captions tell the story. I just want to say that I am not a fan of the baroque, even though Dresden is beautiful, and the complete restoration of all these buildings, sculptures and architectural details destroyed during the war is amazing.

Taking an early train to Dresden on January 2, and having to get up in order to make the breakfast time cut-off in our B&B meant that we had to shift our late-night cycle back to a more normal schedule. Which was good for us.

Dresden

A sunny day greeted us in Dresden. It had been a long time since we’d seen the sun. Not just because we have been night owls, but also because it’s been cloudy and gloomy in Berlin.

Dresden facades

Dresden facades.

Dresden socialist architecture

In Dresden the socialist architecture co-mingles with the baroque buildings. Remnants of recent history together with reconstruction of old history. We also saw lots of Russian women tottering over the cobble stones in high heels at breakneck speed, but they all looked quite comfortable doing this. There’s one in this photo in bright blue pants with her man. We later found out that it was a) a big Russian orthodox holiday this first week of January and b) the Russians love to shop in Dresden which boasts elegant stores filled with designer labels.

Dresden

This mural in Dresden might be the largest I have ever seen.

The Semper Oper in Dresden

The Semper Oper in Dresden. My parents gave us money for tickets to a performance for Christmas, and we booked Madame Butterfly here. It was beautiful. I just need Jeff’s photos of the interior, since he brought his camera that day. After the performance, we went out for drinks at a nearby bar and ran into the opera singer who played Madame Butterfly’s maid. She had done a fantastic job and got as much applause as the lead singer, so we congratulated her on her performance clinked glasses with her for a toast. I considered sending her a drink via the bartender, but didn’t. I should have! One should do these random gutsy things whenever one thinks of them.

Dresden baroque sculptures

Dresden baroque sculptures. It is amazing to think that all this has been reconstructed. But as my friend G.’s mother, who grew up in Potsdam in the 30s and saw the destruction of WWII with her own eyes, and whose husband grew up in Dresden, pointed out: “Even more incredible than the reconstruction is the fact that all this was destroyed in the first place.” And I know what she means.

Dresden sculpture museum in the Albertinum

This window allowed a view of the restoration area of the basement in the Dresden sculpture museum in the Albertinum.

Dresden sculptures on buildings

Sculptures on buildings near the Albertinum in Dresden.

The Modern Masters in the Albertinum, Dresden

Taking a coffee break in the Galerie of Modern Masters in the Albertinum, Dresden. I loved this museum of contemporary art — this was my favourite part of Dresden besides the opera performance!

Dresden at night

Dresden continues to go all baroque-y on you at night.

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New Year’s Day 2013 in Berlin = spa day

Posted on Jan 2, 2013 in Berlin | 0 comments

Meridian Spa, Spandau, Berlin

At the Meridian Spa, Spandau, Berlin. The central pool.

A spa day. That’s what we did on New Year’s Day. Since we went to bed at 4:30 am after partying late, we slept in to a record late time of 2:00 pm or was it 2:30 pm? Still on that 10-hour sleep cycle, apparently.

But we still had an extremely productive day: we dragged our butts around slowly and eventually got out of the house to go to the Meridian Spa in Spandau, Berlin. We rushed out there to do precisely nothing. Read my entry on how to do a proper German sauna if you haven’t yet, to see how this works. Ahhhh! It was a wonderful start into 2013.

Meridian Spa, Spandau, Berlin

The three hot tubs and you can see the doors to some of the six saunas at the Meridian Spa.

Meridian Spa, Spandau, Berlin

One of the large resting areas overlooks the main pool.

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New Year’s Eve 2012 in Berlin with Jeff

Posted on Jan 1, 2013 in Berlin | 0 comments

I am not sure that Jeff is as enamoured of Berlin as I am. He found the streets very wide and the buildings quite pompous and implied it was an impersonal scale. At least that’s what I think he meant. But Berlin is definitely not a beautiful city. I think I mentioned that before. It has some attractive parts and buildings. But what makes Berlin is its history, people, energy, and most of all its creative spirit of improvisation and reinvention.

On New Year’s Eve, we had another leisurely day of walking through the neighbourhood and then visiting the DDR Museum for some educational tidbits on daily life in East Germany that you will see below, and then finished off the New Year with a big party.

Fireworks started going off early on New Year’s Eve and ramped up all afternoon, until reaching their crescendo at midnight, then continuing with ever-diminishing frequency well into the afternoon of New Year’s Day. I tell you, Germans have great energy for fireworks, this is what I remember from childhood too.

Both major and side streets of Berlin were littered with broken glass and remnants of fireworks crackers. Over the next couple of days, this was all cleaned up by the Berlin garbage department; they are very busy at this time of year.

Zionskirche, Prenzlauer-Berg Berlin

Zionskirche, Prenzlauer-Berg Berlin. Until Jeff and I walked by there and read the plaque near the door, I had no idea that Dietrich Bonhoeffer had preached here. This was his church. One of our nephews is named after him.

Boutique window in Prenzlauer-Berg Berlin

Boutique window in Prenzlauer-Berg, Berlin. I normally like shoes, but not these ones.

Having an egg in Prenzlauer-Berg Berlin

Having an egg in an East German egg cup.

DDR Museum, Berlin

In the DDR Museum, Berlin. Controlled by the communist government which suppressed any initiative and creativity, East German product design was soon falling hopelessly behind, much like its products.

Book cover, DDR Museum, Berlin

This book cover in the DDR Museum reminded me that I read this book in German class back in grade 9 or 10. It was written by an East German author who followed a book by Goethe, while subtly criticizing the East German system. The book became popular in West Germany for this reason, and was selected by my teacher for our class to read and discuss.

Diorama of an East German beach, DDR Museum, Berlin

A dusty miniature diorama of a typical (?) East German nude beach, DDR Museum, Berlin. As my sister pointed out when I emailed her some of these photos: “East Germans must have had great genes to have bodies like Ken and Barbie dolls.”

Diorama of an East German beach, DDR Museum, Berlin

Apparently East Germans were even more enthusiastic nudists than the West Germans. The DDR Museum has a whole diorama of an East German nude beach. The nude beaches were the standard, the clothed beaches the exception. As we learned, after German reunification, the signs were switched, so now most beaches are clothed, and only a few are nudist.

Diorama of an East German beach, DDR Museum, Berlin

iPhones are great when it comes to macro shots — they take very good close-ups, and the tiny lens can peep through small cracks in fences or keyholes. Not that I would do that.

Diorama of an East German beach, DDR Museum, Berlin

Is it possible to get in trouble for depicting tiny, dusty, blurry nudist dioramas?

Spiegel magazine cover from the weekend of November 10, 1989

Der Spiegel magazine cover from the weekend of November 10, 1989. “The people win”. That was an incredibly emotional time for all Germans, including myself, but even more so for an older generation who witnessed the wall going up, and never dreamed that they would see it come down in their lifetime. How easily it all suddenly collapsed. The people just weren’t taking it anymore.

DDR Museum, Berlin

The Trabi, of course, is the infamous East German-made car brand Trabant.

New Year's Party in the Kalkscheune, Berlin

For New Year’s Eve, I wanted to go out to a big party for once. We usually celebrate at home with friends, sometimes we just have a small gathering, some years we have a larger party. So I booked us tickets for this big party with five dance floors in a cool building with an inner courtyard. We both enjoyed it very much and were there from 11 pm to 3 am, trying out the different dance floors and the Karaoke bar, which featured mostly German songs that Jeff didn’t know, but I had fun grooving to the Udo Jürgens hit from the late 70s “Aber bitte mit Sahne”.

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