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The Left Bank

Posted on May 10, 2015 in Paris | 0 comments

2015_05_10_Paris Pastries

On Sunday May 10, K. and E. and I had a slow breakfast (after we drew the goodies K. had bought). Unfortunately I was only allowed to eat watery rice, which annoyed me. I’m not in Paris to be on a diet, quite the opposite!

At midday K. and I finally made it out, rented bikes, and rode to Jardin du Luxembourg, which turned out to be closed for a private function. But we found a nice plaza “Place de la Sorbonne” and drew a church-like building which turned out to be part of the university of the Sorbonne. Then went to the Latin Quarter and bought some chocolates, then back to the Jardin which was still closed.

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At Place de la Sorbonne.

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Dragon at Fontaine St. Michel.

We gave up on the Jardin for the day and found a small cafe where we had some drinks and I consumed a French Onion soup in spite of my supposedly all-rice-and-bouillon diet.

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We did another drawing of a cool building that took up a whole city block at Rue Dante and Rue Galande.

Then we walked home via both the Île de Paris and the Île St. Louis, admiring the Notre Dame, and enjoying the music that was everywhere. It was a beautiful, warm, sunny spring day in Paris.

Once at home, we were exhausted, and just sat down and added some colour to our drawings from the day.

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K.’s drawing in progress of the Place de la Sorbonne. She’s a professional illustrator, check out her finished drawing at flickr.com/muffintante

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I thought this looked like a good motif for a vertical drawing.

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A sudden onslaught of people on roller skates. They zipped through like a summer storm, and as suddenly they were gone.

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Nice rusty typography. Has this sign been here since the 13th century when the Sorbonne University started?

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After a week with several fairly cold, rainy and chilly days, everyone is out at the Seine, soaking up the sun.

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Graffiti on a traffic sign.

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The uncautious dinner

Posted on May 9, 2015 in Paris | 0 comments

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The couscous restaurant.

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My friend E. from Germany arrived on May 9!

On May 8, K. and I had a couscous and merguez dinner at this restaurant above, which I probably shouldn’t have done, but it was before my doctor visit on May 9, when I got the official order to only eat rice.

On May 9, after the doctor’s visit in the morning, I picked my Vélib city bike card at City Hall, since it was Saturday, and none of the district offices were open. There are also always holidays in France. I think that each week of the year must have a holiday, because May 1 and May 8 were holidays, and May 14 and May 24 are also holidays. So when Paris seems surprisingly quiet on a weekday, you can be sure it’s a jour de férié!

I immediately activated the Vélib card (it’s great, you just touch it to the receptor right next to the bike you want and it’s yours instantly!) and borrowed my first city bike of the year. I went riding around Paris, always an exhilarating experience. I think I don’t really take the traffic here seriously, because it’s not home. It’s a tourist paradise, and I feel cocky and immune when I’m on the bike. I like to zip through traffic and people.

A bit later in the afternoon I met up with my Berlin sketcher friend K. at the Printemps rooftop terrace and I also checked out the Galeries Lafayette terrace. Then I raced home by bike to meet another guest, 20-year-old E., the daughter of an old German friend, but it was hard to keep biking due to the narrow roads being full of cars and narrow sidewalks full of tourists. I gave up at some point, returned the bike and caught the metro to be home in time to meet E.

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The view from the Printemps department store rooftop terrace.

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Getting sick in Paris but not yet needing a cemetery

Posted on May 4, 2015 in Paris | 0 comments

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Drawing at Père Lachaise Cemetery with my sketching friend from Berlin.

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My Berlin friend drawing at Père Lachaise Cemetery.

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Père Lachaise Cemetery.

The week of May 4, a lot of work came in for me, as well as my first visitor, and I was keeping my head down. It didn’t help that I got a GI bug early that week which lasted about 10 days. My friend got it too, so it must have been something we ate. It may have been a ripe cheese that he forgot to take out of his backpack after shopping. I had wondered why the living room was smelly.

I waited 4 days to see if it would pass on its own, but when I didn’t feel any better on day 5, I called S.O.S. Médecin, an emergency doctor service, and a doctor came in on a Saturday to make a house call. They still do that here in France. It was a bit strange. I had to lie down on my bed, while the doctor took my blood pressure, and patted my stomach. He was inordinately impressed with my blood pressure, by the way, but I have no idea why. I know it’s quite low. I asked him, resigned: “Je ne peux pas manger des croissants?” and he laughed. “Non, seulement riz et bouillon.” So I tried that for a couple of days to give my stomach a break, but snuck in some chocolate anyway. He also prescribed some medicine to slow down my système, and some pain killers for the stomach. I’ve never had anything like this for so long. Welcome to Paris.

I had to make do with longingly drawing my second visitor’s pastries but I abstained for about 2 or 3 days after the doctor gave me the stern advice, then I slowly began to feel better. I had planned to drink a half bottle of wine a day in Paris. Now I am far behind on my drinking regimen.

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Definitely not sick enough to stay home.

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There seemed to be a main street of bigger grave stones, and then the smaller ones in the side streets.

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Flowers in resin, detail on a grave.

At Pére Lachaise Cemetery

Detail in a grave monument. Everything here is pretty much left to rot, I am sure the bigger, fancier monuments get fixed up, but a lot of smaller ones are decaying, which is just as it should be.

At Pére Lachaise Cemetery

A jungle of grave stones.

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Drawing with a Paris meetup group

Posted on May 3, 2015 in Paris | 0 comments

2015_05_03_Musée des Arts et Métiers, Paris

What I liked most about this museum were the display cases, beautifully crafted out of wood, glass and metal, and the way they were so precisely lined up in the rooms, creating strong lines of perspective to draw.

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The museum had a lot of scientific instruments to measure stuff, and some early airplanes, and bicycles, and a Foucault’s Pendulum, which I promptly read up on Wikipedia. I had heard of it before, but couldn’t have explained what it was. Now I know a little bit.

Musée des Arts et Métiers

I drew some objects that I didn’t really understand at all, still I thought they were beautiful. Sometimes I don’t really want to know how a thing works, I am happy to be ignorant, I just appreciate it for its aesthetic appeal.

On May 3, I went to the Musée des Arts et Métiers (that means something like “Museum of Arts and Industry”, I think) to join a meetup group called “So sketch — carnets de voyage” that I joined and drew with last year when I came to Paris. So I recognized at least one person, the organizer for this event.

After about two hours of touring the museum and sketching, we reconvened in the lobby and moved on to the very nice museum cafe to have a drink and talk more about sketching and what we are all doing in Paris. Out of the 7 or 8 people, there was probably only one French person present, but most of the other people live in Paris permanently.

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A long walk along the Seine

Posted on May 2, 2015 in Paris | 0 comments

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Even on a rainy day, you can still take your wedding photos along the Seine with the Notre Dame cathedral as a back drop. I did it slightly differently, Jeff and I got married in a 70-seat British Columbia pioneer church in a Salmon Arm outdoor museum, the RJ Haney Heritage Village & Museum.

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The famous cathedral, it’s rather quiet around it on this day.

This photo of R.J. Haney Heritage Village & Museum is courtesy of TripAdvisor. This is where Jeff and I got married.

On Saturday, May 2, I had a late breakfast in small bistro near the Marché d’Aligre. It was so late that they were out of croissants, I had to make do with a chunk of baguette. That’s the problem with my Paris schedule, I work from about 6 pm to 2 am, go to bed around 3 am, and get up around 10 am. It’s not a schedule conducive to catching the freshly baked batches of morning croissants. But luckily, many bakeries continue baking them all morning until noon or even later. So one can often find them, even with a night shift schedule.

I then walked for five hours, almost to the Eiffel Tower and back. It was a rainy, drizzly, chilly, but somehow lovely day. I had the bank of the Seine almost to myself. I stopped for pastries at Eric Kayser behind the Musée d’Orsay and had beyond a doubt the best chocolate éclair of my life. (Did I mention I came to Paris in large part to eat?). I also popped into the Louvre (I love saying that) to apply for an annual professional pass to the Louvre, but no success. They said that my VCC faculty card with my photo had no validity date, which is true. So I will request a letter from human resources. Being an instructor in a fine arts field, I get the opportunity at a reduced rate pass.

I picked up more food at Marché d’Aligre on the way back, and after a day of eating and looking at great food, made myself an anti-climactic sandwich for dinner.

Still no drawing this day… but the banner at the top shows a view of the Seine on a later, much sunnier day.

Now walk with me through rainy Paris:

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On a day like this, you can have Paris all to yourself.

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There are boats moored along the Seine, some are tour boats, some are available for events, some house restaurants or bars. I found a good one later, when I went out with some Paris urban sketchers: Rosa Bonheur, near Pont Alexandre III. A casual floating bar to have some food and drink, with benches inside and no table service; you just walk up to the bar and get what you want.

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Even groceries can look picturesque in Paris.

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Narrow side walks, Parisian poodles, women wearing foulards.

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A lot of people still smoke here, and this shop woman’s behaviour is clearly in direct contravention of the Vancouver Health By-Law restrictions that say “smoking is prohibited within 6 metres of an entryway, opening window or air intake of a building or within 6 metres of the perimeter of a customer service area.” Not in Paris.

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You’d think this would be a shop window for a shoe-maker, right? Well, I’m not sure it was. That is the mystery of some Paris shops.

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Taking a break at one of the excellent Eric Kayser bakeries that dot Paris. Did I mention how great the chocolate éclair was? I’ve never had anything like it. But then I’ve probably eaten less than ten chocolate éclairs in my whole life. It’s not really a thing with me. But this one was.

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Turn left at the Louvre

Posted on May 1, 2015 in Paris | 0 comments

Almost there!

Presque là!

The building where I'm staying

The building where I'm staying.

I arrived in Paris on Friday, May 1. I am going to be here for two full months! I rented a 1-bedroom apartment on Airbnb, and invited all my friends to visit me. And many are coming.

After landing, I took the Air France bus from Charles de Gaulle airport, to avoid having to lug my suitcase off and on trains and metros. Everything went smoothly. I checked into my apartment at noon, then walked around the neighbourhood. I checked out the nearby daily farmers’ market, Marché d’Aligre, and got some groceries at a store. In Paris, there’s a grocery store, a cheese store, a butcher, a bakery, a wine merchant, a bar, a restaurant, a book store, a realtor, a falafel place, and at least one completely unidentifiable business in every block. Or so it seems.

Since I came mostly to consume things on the spot, I brought a small suitcase only. It has no room to bring much of anything back. I didn’t want to be tempted to buy stuff. Okay, maybe one pair of shoes.

No drawing yet. It was only my first day.

Marché d'Aligre

Marché d’Aligre, the famous street market in this neighbourhood. It runs every morning until 1:00 pm or even later, and longer on weekends.

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I believe in blasphemy

Posted on Jan 13, 2015 in Vancouver | 1 comment

Rent an oil fountain for your next Last Supper!

I drew my vision of the Last Supper after the big 2010 oil spill in the Gulf of Mexico. I think it really shows what’s wrong with the world, and all of us.

The killings of cartoonists and staff at Charlie Hebdo satirical magazine in Paris by religious extremists last week, and the other related shootings, affected me more than most news do. It’s probably because I identify with other artists, especially with people who draw. And I’ve been to Paris just last May for the first time in 22 years, and will return there this spring, so the place is often in my mind.

I’ve been thinking a lot about the shootings, and what they mean. About how someone could get killed over a drawing. Obviously, it was a barbaric act by people who may or may not care as much about religion as they say, by people who may be violent, unstable, disenfranchised, misguided, unfulfilled in their aspirations, looking for belonging, or just ignorant tools in a greater plot for dominance. I don’t know, and I can’t relate to, or even understand their motives.

But most of all, I want to make a case for blasphemy. I am all for it. I think it is important as a tool to criticize organized religion. Religion should not be above criticism. I have no problem per se with the big prophets: Mohammed, Jesus, Buddha — they were all searching and finding a lot of wisdom to share. It’s what people have made of their wisdom, how they’ve been interpreted, that is the problem. So even if you cover yourself with the mantle of religion and belief, it should by no means give you a free pass to be above criticism, and yes, satire and parody. Of course, everyone is entitled to their opinion. What you must not do, is physically injure, enslave or bully others.

While I personally would not take on Islam to criticize and parody, since it is not my religion, nor my background, and I don’t know that much about it, I feel completely entitled to make fun of Christianity, which is part of the culture I grew up in. I participated in the Christian religion for a while. But I don’t go to church any more because I realized it was dysfunctional, and moreover, I disagree with the whole patriarchal system that shockingly, most evangelical churches still follow to this day! So as I have been getting older, I have returned to existentialism as my preferred life philosophy. But I admit that I don’t have the final answers, and I firmly believe that you don’t either.

Here’s some blasphemy (or as close as I can get) that I’ve been sketching over the last few years. Yay for blasphemy, and uncensored art and writing!

A dream

Crucifiction

Years of life drawing finally coming in handy

God has a plan for you too

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A road trip through Oregon, Idaho, and Wyoming

Posted on Nov 18, 2014 in Burns, Crane, Portland, Somewhere in Idaho, Somewhere in Oregon, West Yellowstone | 0 comments

Road trip through the NW U.S.
From mid-June to early July, we went on a camping road trip through Oregon, Idaho and Wyoming with our VW camper van. Our prime destination was Yellowstone National Park, my first visit there. I was doing credit card size mini sketches from the passenger seat whenever Jeff was driving. The sketches took from about 1 to 10 minutes each. Some I did when we’d stopped, but most I drew quickly while passing by, having to rely on my visual memory — not a bad exercise for someone who’s not very observant by nature.

Road trip through the NW U.S.
From doing these sketches and having to really look around me, I had a much better appreciation of the changing landscape. And also that beetle-cleaned skulls are the best — if you’re a taxidermist.

Road trip through the NW U.S.
At 8 sketches per letter-size page in my sketchbook, and filling up about 30 pages, I ended up with around 240 sketches. Here are just 64 of them, probably not in exact chronological order.

Crystal Crane Hot Springs campground, near Burns, Oregon

Click on the “play” button to see the slide show below; you can also enlarge it to take up the full screen, but keep in mind the original sketches are tiny.

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Watercolour workshop with Shari Blaukopf

Posted on Nov 16, 2014 in Vancouver | 0 comments

In early June, one of my Meetup group members had arranged for the the Montreal urban sketcher and watercolour artist Shari Blaukopf to host a watercolour workshop in Vancouver. This took place on June 5 and 6; there were 12 of us, we only had a little bit of drizzle, and Shari did a great job.

The rule for me is, I don’t get much done in a workshop. I am slow, especially if I have to absorb new information. So my hope is always that something has sunk in anyway.

Shari Blaukopf watercolour workshop I
Here’s Shari doing her demo and leaving us in awe.

Shari Blaukopf watercolour workshop II
I enjoyed practicing grey-scale value sketching in pencil.

Shari Blaukopf watercolour workshop I||
Practicing watercolour sketches with a palette restricted to only three colours.

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Working hard on Maui

Posted on Nov 12, 2014 in Maui | 4 comments

A vacation in Maui with my parents

I did this as an assignment for Sketchbook Skool, Danny Gregory’s “klass”. It was fun to try something different. And I had time here on Maui to do my “homework”.

To see and read all the detail, click on the image and it will take you to Flickr where you can see it much bigger.

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